Glossary
A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z

A
Adjustable Waistband - A waistband in pants with an adjustable device inside that can be used to vary the waist measurement. Usually found on pants that are held up with
braces or suspenders.

Ascot - A wide tie or scarf worn around the neck so that the ends lie on top of each other in front of the shirt. A stickpin is often used instead of a tie tack.

Acrylic - A manufactured fiber derived from polyester.

Alpaca - A natural fiber from the Alpaca sheep, a domesticated member of the llama family.

B
Banded Collar - A collar consisting of removeable strips of cloth that sit on the neck of the shirt and the button at the front. These shirts are considered formal wear.
Bar Tack - A small piece of fabric sewn onto the back of the wide end of a tie to give the tie more structure.

Barn Jacket - A utilitarian, roomy jacket usually offered in micro-fiber with a
corduroy collar, large patch pockets, and flannel or wool lining.

Basketweave - A textile weave consisting of double threads interlaced to produce a checkered pattern similar to that of a woven basket.

Bellows Pocket - An expanding, pleated jacket pocket.

Belt Loops - Fabric loops attached to the waistline of pants to hold a belt in place.

Bengal Stripes - Narrow stripes on a white shirt, usually dark blue, deep red, or dark gray.

Besom Pocket - A pocket with a narrow welting edging. A single-besom pocket has edging on the pocket lip. A double-bessom pocket has edging on and above the pocket.

Blazer - A sport coat, whether single or double-breasted that is typically solid navy or black. Often features contrasting buttons of brass or animal horn.

Bomber Jacket - A leather jacket with sheepskin lining and elastic waist.

Boutonniere - A flower worn for adornment on the lapel of a jacket.

Bow Tie - A small necktie tied into a bow. Bow ties are made in both the more common pre-tied or clip-on styles, and in traditional hand-tied model.

Braces - Suspenders without clasps that button into the waistband of pants, giving a more formal look than clasp suspenders or belts. Brace buttons can be added by a tailor.

Break - Horizontal crease in the pant leg where it hits the vent of the shoe. The break is important to consider when judging the fit of the pants.
British Spread Collar - A collar with a wider, more formal spread than the spread collar.

Broadcloth - A plain, tightly woven fabric characterized by a slight ridge effect in one direction. The most common broadcloth is made from cotton or cotton/polyester blends. This cloth is usually mercerized and has a soft, firm finish. Also called poplin.

Butterfly Tie - A bow tie with wide butterfly-like ends.

Button-Down Collar - A collar with two small buttons to hold down its points.

C
Camel Hair - Fabric woven from the hair of the Bactrian camel of Asia. Noted for its softness and excellent warmth compared to its weight.

Camp Shirt - A casual shirt with loose, elbow length sleeves. Usually made of silk,
rayon, or linen.

Carding - A process of separating individual fibers, causing many of them to lie parallel and removing most impurities.

Cashmere - Fine wool produced by the cashmere goat, which is raised in the Kashmir region of India and Pakistan. Cashmere provides excellent drape and a soft luxurious feel.

Chalk Stripe - Similar to Pin Stripes, but with wider stripes running in parallel.
Clear Finish - Clear-finish fabric is sheared closely so the fuzzy or hairy surface has been all but removed.

Collar Stays - Thin pieces of plastic that fit in slots underneath the collar to give shape and structure.

Convertible Cuffs - Cuffs that can be buttoned or worn with cuff links.
Cord - A raised rib on the surface of cloth.

Corduroy – A fabric usually made from cotton, utilizing a cut-pile weave construction. Extra sets of yarns are spun into the fabric to form ridges on the surface often measured in ribs called “wales”.

Cotton - Fabric woven from vegetable seed fiber of the cotton plant. Cotton is the most widely used fiber in the world because it is versatile and provides good comfort.

Covert - A medium-weight suiting or topcoat fabric with a diagonal twill. Wool coverts are made with a dark and light yarn, woven closely for a mixture effect.

Cravat - A scarf or band of fabric worn around the neck as a tie.

Crepe - A light soft thin fabric of silk, cotton, wool, or another fiber, with a crinkled surface.

Crew Neck - A collarless pullover shirt.

Cuff - A fold sewn into the hem of a pant leg or a fold used as trimming at the bottom of a shirt sleeve.

Cuff Links - 2 identical objects shaped so they can pass through the button holes of the cuff to fasten it. Worn with French Cuff dress shirts.

Cutaway - A single-breasted formal coat with peak lapels. The back tail extends and tapers at the knee.

D
Denim - A blue cotton material used for jeans.

Dimple - The indentation directly below the tie knot.

Dinner Jacket - A jacket appropriate for semi-formal or formal wear.
Single or double-breasted, most typically in black or white with peak lapels. Also known as a tuxedo jacket.

Dobby - A small geometric figure woven into fabric.

Donegal Tweed – A medium to heavy woven fabric where slubs of yarn are woven throughout to create a speckled appearance. This fabric originates from Donegal, Ireland and is used primarily in seasonal sportcoats.

Double Needle - Fabric knitted with a double stitch on a double-knitted machine to create a double-layered fabric.

Double-Breasted - The style for a jacket or coat in which a few inches of fabric flap over and close the opening of the jacket or coat. A traditional double-breasted style usually includes two rows of buttons at the front.

Dry Cleaning - A cleaning process for clothing and textiles using an organic solvent other than water. Dry cleaning is necessary for cleaning items which would otherwise be damaged by water and soap or detergent.

E
Egyptian Cotton - A general classification for strong, lustrous, long lasting cotton produced largely in the Nile River valley. Egypt is the world's largest producer of high quality cotton.

End-on-End - Closely woven fabric with alternating fine colored yarn and a white yarn creating a mini checkered effect with a smooth texture.

Envelope - The visible surface of a tie. It also contains a wool inner lining.
Executive Cut - A cut of clothing designed specifically for men who require more fabric around their waistline. Jackets have larger front panels, and slacks have larger waist sizes, than those of traditional tailored clothing.

F
Faille – A glossy, soft, finely
ribbed silk-like woven fabric made from cotton, silk or wool. This fabric can be used in tuxedos and suits.

Fitting - For tailoring a fitting session is needed to make the needed adjustments before a garment can be "Finished".

Flannel - A medium to heavywieght fabric with a slightly napped surface created by applying friction during the finishing process. Primarily used during the fall season, flannel provides excellent insulation and warmth.

Flap Pocket - A pocket with a piece of fabric that extends from the top edge of the pocket over the pocket opening. Most commonly used in a convertible flap, a pocket where the flap can be tucked into the pocket opening.

Flat-Front - A type of trouser without pleats, currently found in more fashion forward suits.

Forward Pleat - A pleat on a pant where the fabric is folded outside.

Four-in-Hand - A popular method of tie tying that creates a simple straight knot.

French Cuffs - A formal style of cuff that folds back away from the wrist. French cuffs are worn with cuff links.

G
Gabardine – A tightly woven, twilled or worsted fabric woven on a diagonal line. Perfect for year-round suitings and can be used in most natural fibers.

Gingham Check - A fine checked material used in shirts.

Glen Plaid - A plaid pattern of muted colors or of black or gray and white, esp. one in which two dark and two light stripes alternate with four dark and four light stripes, both vertically and horizontally, forming a crossing pattern of irregular checks.

Gorge - The seam on the front of a coat or jacket where the lapel and the collar are joined.

Grip - A small piece of fabric attached to the inside of the waistband designed to hold a shirt in place.

H
Hand - Describes tactile qualities of fabrics, such as softness, drape, and reilience.

Herringbone – A variation of a twill pattern where the twill is reversed, or broken, at regular intervals to create a zig-zag effect.

High-Twist - Fabrics that are woven from highly twisted yarns. High twist yarn is lightweight, drapable, and highly durable.

Hopsack - A variation of the plain weave in which two yarns are woven over and under together in a loose weave.

Houndstooth - A twill variation where interlacing yarns create a pattern in the base cloth that remains vibrant in most type of apparel.

House Check - A checked pattern that is only used by one brand and identifies their products. Usually used as lining in garments.

I
Inseam - The length of a pant leg from crotch to cuff.

J
Jacquard - Woven fabrics created by an attachment onto the
loom. A jacquard has depth and versatility in its color ability and can be made from almost any base yarn.

Jersey - A close-fitting knitted pullover shirt, jacket, or sweater.

K
Khaki - A neutral color, the name of which is derived from a Hindi word meaning "dust". Often used as another name for chinos.

L
Lambs Wool - The first clip of wool sheered from lambs up to eight months old. The wool is soft, slippery and resilient and used in “better” wool garments.

Lapel - Part of the front of a jacket or coat that is turned back on either side of the opening, extending from the collar downward.

Linen - A fabric made from the fibers inside of the woody stem of a flax plant. Linen is stronger and more durable than cotton but wrinkles easily.

Loom - A machine used for weaving fabrics.

M
Mercerized - Mercerization is a process of treating cotton where the yarns are washed in a caustic soda solution and then dipped in an acid. This process causes permament swelling of the fiber to create a clean, lusterous, and strong product.

Merino - A type of wool from the rare, pure-bred Merino sheep. The most expensive Merino comes from the hills of Italy.

Mock-Neck - A turtleneck-type collar, similar to but shorter than a turtleneck.

Mottled - Spotted or blotched with different shades or colors.

N
Nap - A soft or fuzzy surface on fabric or leather.

Notched Collar - A collar with a notch in the middle of the lapel.

Nylon - One of the oldest manufactured fibers first produced in 1938, nylon is known for its strength and abrasion resistance.

O
Ottoman - A tightly woven
plain weave fabric with ribs and a lusterous surface.

Outseam - The length from the top of the waistband of a pair of pants to the bottom of the cuff.

Oxford - A cotton fabric made with a modified plain weave, similar to hopsack. The resulting fabric is soft and porous with a lustrous finish.

P
Patch Pocket - A pocket made from a piece of fabric stitched onto the outside surface of a jacket.

Pea Coat - A heavy,
double-breasted, woolen jacket worn by sailors. Usually dark blue or black in color.

Peg - A pant leg that narrows toward the ankle.

Pin Stripe - A pattern of very thin stripes running in parallel.

Pique - A medium weight fabric, either knit or woven, with raised dobby designs including cords, wales and waffles. This is often used in sportswear.

Plaid - Any fabric woven of differently colored yarns in a crossbarred pattern.

Plain Weave - A simple fabric weave where horizontal yarn passes over one end of vertical yarn and then under the next end. Examples include broadcloths and hopsack.

Pleats - A fold in the fabric usually sewn into the front of pants. Pleats allow more movement and are regarded as a more "dressy" look.

Point Collar - Traditional collar used on dress shirts. Usually about 3 inches in length and points down.

Polo Shirt - A casual pullover shirt with a collar and several buttons at the neck opening.

Polyester - Synthetic fibers characterized by its strength, shape retention, and resistance to stretching and wrinkling.

Polysonic Rayon - A variation of rayon that is more similar to cotton.

Poplin - A ribbed fabric of silk, rayon, wool, or cotton, used in making clothing and upholstery.

Q

R
Raglan - Loose-fitting coat with full-cut sleeves and a seam extending at an angle from each armhole to the collar in front and in back.

Raglan Shirt - A loose-fitting shirt that comes in short or long sleeves.

Rayon - A manufactured fabric from regenerated cellulose from wood pulp or other vegetable matter. Viscose is another type of Rayon.

Rep Tie - A type of plain-woven silk tie featuring a crosswise rib.

Reverse Pleat - A pleat on a pant where the fabric is folded on the inside. Used to create a slender look.

Rib - A raised ridge or wale in knitted material or in cloth.

Riley Collar - A spread collar with rounded tips that point at an angle rather than straight down.

Rise - The length between the top of the waistband and the crotch.

S
Seersucker - A woven fabric created from modifying tension controls on the
loom. The result is a puckered stripe effect in the fabric.

Serge - A clear-finish fabric with a flat, diagonal twill line that crosses from the lower left to upper right of the face of the fabric.

Sharkskin - Worsted fabric made from a small twill weave. Very durable and is often made with 2 different colored yarns to produce a mottled effect, said to resemble the look of shark skin.

Shawl Collar - A type of collar used on jackets that is wide and round. The collar begins on the back of the neck and curves around to the front.

Shetland - Lightweight and warm wool fabric made to have a soft hand and shaggy finish.

Shirt Jacket - A loose-fitting jacket worn instead of a sport coat.

Silk - A natural filament produced by the silkworm in the construction of its coccoon. All silk comes from Asia, primarily China.

Single-Breasted - A coat or jacket with one row of buttons and a narrow overlap of fabric.

Single Needle - Fabric knitted with a single needle, which means it is less substantial, durable, and strutured than a double-needle knit.

Slub - A soft thick nub in yarn that is either an imperfection or purposely set for a desired effect.

Smoking Jacket - A loose-fitting wrap jacket with a shawl collar that ties around the waist.

Sport Coat - A jacket worn with slacks of a different fabric.

Spread Collar - A dress shirt collar that is spread wider than collars on most other shirts. The spread allows room for the Windsor-style tie knot.

Stickpin - A decorative pin worn on a necktie.

Striped Tie - A corded silk tie with diagonal stripes made with a crosswise weave.

Super 100's - Wools designated as "Super". Using ultra fine yarns that are woven into luxurious feeling fabrics. The number refers to the quality and length of the wool fibers used (i.e., Super 100, 120, 140, etc.).

Suspenders - Strips of fabric worn instead of a belt that clip to the waistband (see also braces). Worn over the shoulders in order to keep pants up.

T
Tab Collar - A collar with 2 small tabs on either point that can be attached to hold the collar in place. The tabs bring the collar close to the base of the neck and stay behind the knot of the tie.

Tie Chain - A chain that attaches just under the knot to keep the tie in place.

Tie Tack - A short pin with a decorative head, used to attach a tie to a shirt front by means of a snap or chain.

Trench Coat - A double-breasted long outer coat styled after the coats worn by British army officers in the trenches of WWI.

Tropical - Term used to describe year-round weight fabrics.

Turtleneck - A long necked pullover with a collar that is rolled down to fit closely around the neck.

Twill Weave - Twill weave is characterized by a diagonal rib, generally running upward from left to right. Examples include gabardine, serge, and covert. Also known as harness weave.

U

V
V-Neck - A V shaped neck on a shirt or sweater.

Vent - A slit in a garment, as in the back seam of a jacket. Vents allow the wearer better movement. Jackets are made with center vents, vents on the side seams, and no vent at all.

W
Waffle - A honeycomb weave usually of cotton or wool.

Wale - One of the parallel ribs or ridges in the surface of a fabric such as corduroy.

Welt - A tape or covered cord sewn into a seam as reinforcement or trimming.

Windsor Knot - A wide, puffy style knot that protrudes in front of the collar.

Wool - Fiber produced from the fleece of a sheep or lamb.

Worsted - Firm-textured, compactly twisted woolen yarn made from long-staple fibers that is combed to remove impurities. Worsted wool has a natural recovery, meaning that it is resilient and quickly returns to its natural shape.

X

Y
Yarn - Generic term for a continuous strand spun from a group of natural or synthetic staple fibers, or filaments, used in weaving, knitting to form fabrics.

Z
Zoot Suit - A man's suit popular during the early 1940s, characterized by full-legged, tight-cuffed trousers and a long coat with wide lapels and heavily padded, wide shoulders.